Biking in the Highlands: A Narrative
Last summer, after nearly three years of biking in and around Philadelphia, I was looking to move on to the next step. Biking between cities seemed like a good progression, so I biked from Trenton to New York as a day trip. Covering approximately 72 miles, the ride tested my mental and physical endurance, but I found it deeply rewarding.
One of the reasons I enjoy biking is because it allows us to truly soak in the essence of the cities and towns we pass through, something you can’t experience from a car. I sometimes joke with friends that I can tell what each city or town I biked through smells like.
Over the past year, in particular, I have continued to look for ways to bike wherever my travels took me: after that New York trip in 2023, I biked in Hawaii and San Diego, as well as in Oxford, Denver, Kathmandu, and Cambridge.
Picking the Scottish Highlands and Travel Prep
I first traveled to Scotland about seven years ago during a work trip to Glasgow. While there, I also explored Edinburgh and was intrigued by the rustic charm and history of the two cities. Last year in December, I revisited Glasgow and Edinburgh, but I felt a pull to see more of Scotland outside these two cities.
As I began looking for other places to visit, I stumbled upon videos of people biking (cycling) through the Highlands. The idea of cycling through such a wonderful landscape appealed to me. So, I researched and decided on the route from Inverness to Fort William, approximately 70 miles (around 110 kilometers).
The preparation for the trip was pretty straightforward: I contacted a local bike rental service – called Ticket to Ride – in Inverness to rent a bike; they also sent me route suggestions from Inverness to Fort William. After confirming the bike rental and booking a place to stay, my trip was set.
I flew into Edinburgh and then took a train to Inverness, enjoying the scenic views along the way. This train journey felt like an excellent prelude to my biking adventure, with rolling hills and quaint Scottish villages visible outside my train window.
Day 0: Arrival in Inverness
Upon arriving in Inverness, I checked into my hotel. The city felt quiet and laid-back; unlike many towns and cities these days, you had to spend a bit of time figuring out how things work before settling in. For instance, Uber isn’t available there; instead, you use Inverness Taxis, which you can call and book.
Once I settled into the city, I visited the bike shop to check out my bike. The staff was friendly and accommodating, and we agreed I would pick up the bike the following day at 9 am when they opened.
Day 1: Inverness to Fort Augustus
The following day, I checked out of my hotel and headed to Ticket to Ride to pick up my bike. They had kindly agreed to store my luggage, so I left most of it there and only took my small bike bag, which had a change of clothes, toiletries, battery, a tablet, and camera. With everything set, I started my journey from Inverness. I planned to bike about 34 miles to Fort Augustus, roughly the midpoint to Fort William, my final destination. I deliberately divided the ~70 miles into two days, aiming to savor the ride with multiple stops and pace myself for the many uphill “highland” climbs I knew were coming my way, the first one around the 15-mile mark.
Leaving Inverness, the Highland countryside gradually unfolded before me. Rolling hills, cows, and alpacas grazing, the peacefulness of the scenery was really meditative. My first stop was in Dores, about 9 miles in. I came across a charming mobile coffee shop called “Ness Coffee” and took a break for an espresso and a muffin. Consulting my map, I figured Foyers, about 10 miles away, would be a perfect spot for lunch, so I continued.
The stretch from Dores to Foyers was particularly nostalgic, with Loch Ness accompanying me on the right. As a young kid in Kathmandu, I had read about Scotland and the mythical Loch Ness monster in an elementary school English course. Now, riding alongside Loch Ness, I felt some connection to those stories from my childhood. I made several stops, enjoying the views and taking pictures with my camera.
After about two and a half hours, I arrived in Foyers and found a quaint spot for lunch, run by two elderly ladies with a sharp sense of humor. A simple ham and cheese sandwich paired with another espresso and I was ready for the next part of the journey: the climb.
The climb was steady, and I was starting to tire a little by this time. I haven’t had a chance to prepare for the ride as I typically do: having been in Nepal right before heading to the UK, I had only managed to bike once in four weeks.
The best way to describe the journey from Foyers to Fort Augustus is that it felt truly majestic. A long stretch of road —with only a few cars passing by — left me mostly alone with my bike and the Highland views: hills, greenery… just pure beauty. The climb’s difficulty felt like a small price to pay for the beauty I was seeing.
After about 10 miles of steady climb, the descent into Fort Augustus began, offering more amazing views. By the time I got to Fort Augustus, it was almost 4:30 pm. I checked into my Lodge, wandered into town, and found a place called “Monster's Fish and Chips”. It happened to be Scotland vs. Switzerland in Euro 2024, so I grabbed a pint of local beer and watched the game with fellow travelers (the game finished 1-1) at the Lodge before heading to bed.
Day 2: Fort Augustus to Fort William
I woke up in Fort Augustus around 7 AM, a bit tired but certainly excited for another day of biking through the Highlands. After breakfast, I packed my gear and set off around 9 AM. My goal was to bike about 34 miles to Fort William, the final destination of my journey.
The route began along the Caledonian Canal, a long stretch of towpath that reminded me of the Capital Crescent Trail in Washington, D.Cc and the Manayunk Towpath in Philadelphia. The start of Day 2 therefore felt even more peaceful and familiar.
However, about 5 miles in, I hit an unexpected detour near Aberchalder. The main path was closed, forcing me onto a narrow forest trail with uneven roads and a bit of a climb. Initially, I felt nervous biking through the forest, but I was able to adjust quickly, and it started to become pretty fun. After navigating about 3 miles of these not-so-easy trails, I reached Invergarry.
In Invergarry, I took a short break at the Invergarry Hotel. I ordered a macchiato (espresso with a dash of milk foam) and a brownie. During this stop, I also met a lovely couple cycling from Inverness to Fort William. They had cycled the route 20 years ago and were now retracing their journey one the same (heavy steel frame) bike, retrofitted as an electric bike to ease the climbs. This was one of those serendipitous interactions that I have come to appreciate whenever I travel.
Leaving Invergarry, I rode alongside Loch Lochy on well-developed forest trails that are part of the Great Glen Way. The scenery was stunning, with greenery and small hills creating a serene, picturesque backdrop. I saw quite a few hikers and bikers, most of them older than me, along the way.
After about 25 miles of cycling, I reached Gairlochy and merged back onto the Caledonian Canal towpath. This section felt more “civilized,” with the path well-maintained and more people around. As I continued, the sense of approaching my destination grew stronger.
I arrived in Fort William around 4 p.m. I dropped off my bike at Ben Nevis Cycles and headed to my hotel.
Wrap-Up
The following day, I woke up and took a taxi to Ben Nevis Distillery after some light breakfast at my hotel in Fort William. I had signed up for a tour and wanted to purchase a whisky to take back to Nepal to enjoy with my father, who also enjoys scotch. The tour was an excellent way to cap off my adventure, and the whisky was a nice souvenir.
After the tour, I took the bus back to Inverness. This had been a fun, memorable trip. I checked out a whiskey pub (called the Malt Room) in the evening at Inverness and after grabbing dinner at a local take-out shop, called it a night.
The next day, I flew out of Inverness Airport and onwards to Cambridge, carrying with me not just the Ben Nevis whisky and fond memories of the Scottish Highlands, but a commitment that I’d do more of these adventures in the future…
